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Run, don't walk to Barbados

The famous Marathon Weekend showcases this Caribbean island's biggest treasure — its people...


  • Jan 09 2025
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  • 4720 Views
Run, don't walk to Barbados
Run, don't walk to Barbados

An unscheduled stop, a rum shop on the outskirts of Bridgetown.

The Goalkeeper Sports Bar (rum shop = bar in Barbados) is owned by a former teammate of our tour guide, Cedric Lynch, and is a colourful one-story building on the corner of a residential street.

What is at first a quiet scene soon turns into the setting for a street party, as news of our arrival spreads.

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It attracts locals of all ages, with the younger ones offering to braid the hair of our female contingent, and the older folk sharing stories as if with lifelong friends.

Meanwhile, copious amounts of rum, Banks beer and Guinness Foreign Extra - a popular drink the Caribbean, at a jolting 7.5 percent ABV - are knocked back.

We have already seen so much of the island’s wonderful tourist offering; the luxury hotels, the beaches, caves, a catamaran cruise, a breathtaking golf course and its unique nightlife.

A catamaran cruise is a must-do on any visit to Barbados
A catamaran cruise is a must-do on any visit to Barbados

But this is off the beaten track, a peek behind the curtain. An unforgettable detour.

We arrived in Barbados in early December on a mission. In the middle of our six-night stay was an event billed as the Run Barbados Marathon Weekend.

On Friday was a Fun Mile around a race course, Saturday a 5k and 10k run along the coast and then on Sunday morning, starting at 5.30am before the merciless sun could make an appearance, the half-marathon and marathon.

We opted for the ‘Bronze Challenge’, the Mile, 5k and half-marathon.

The four colourful medals — along with a couple of bottles of rum — meant our luggage on the way home was a little heavier than on the way out.

There were Silver and Gold challenges too, and were it not for a series of injuries and an absence from the running scene of almost 18 months, we might have been a little more ambitious.

But there’s always next year. Isn’t there, Cedric?

The experience of running in the Caribbean heat (it never seems to drop below 28 degrees in Barbados), as well as the landscape and local support, makes this a truly unique experience. More on Run Barbados in the sports and fitness pages.

Our journey to Bridgetown was with British Airways via London Heathrow, with an evening arrival. Plenty of time to settle into our Wyndhams Sam Lord’s Castle base.

The all-inclusive nature of the hotel even extended to a generously long shelf in the rum bar next to the reception (rum is a recurring theme here).

Before bed, we tried some of the local favourites, including Plantation Rum and its delicious ‘Cut & Dry’ coconut-flavoured rum, as well as offerings from Foursquare.

With its distillery just 10 minutes down the road, Foursquare is about as local as you could get.

Kegs outside Foursquare Distillery
Kegs outside Foursquare Distillery

The hotel is on the island’s east coast, where the Atlantic waters are rougher than the glassy Caribbean Sea on the Bridgetown side of the island.

But it’s quite the sight to wake up to each morning - and the jetlag means we are up in time to see the spectacular sunrise. Every room in this well-designed hotel has an ocean view.

Wyndhams sits on a 29-acre site and it overlooks the historic Sam Lord’s Castle, built in the 1800s as a home to Sam Lord, a man about whom many legends have been written.

It is said that he drew ships into shallow waters nearby and plundered their treasures. Occasionally, divers still explore in the hope of finding something shiny sticking out from the seabed.

Gutted by a fire in 2010, there are plans to restore the building to its former glory.

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We visited Harrison’s Cave and Eco Adventure Park in the Barbadian midlands, learned about the history of Barbados and drove deep into its limestone interior.

Our guide Che and driver Carl informed us that the temperature in the caves is a consistent 76 degrees.

Unfortunately we didn’t have time to try the zipline or the Mount Gay Rum tasting, but there was the small matter of the Fun Mile that evening. And while it was a short run, we wanted to be in reasonable shape.

The food in Barbados is outstanding. We practically became pescatarian for the duration of our stay, such was the quality of the seafood on offer.

Flying fish - a winged creature that can leap out of the water and glide for up to 40m - is a speciality. Try it. You won’t be disappointed.

Even better; try it at the Fish Fry at Oistins Bay Gardens, where you can while watching locals and tourists dance, and then browse the market stalls packed with art and craft items. It’s an experience that hits all the senses.

A Fish Fry at Oistins Bay Gardens
A Fish Fry at Oistins Bay Gardens

This was our post-run refuelling and the flying fish was served with lots of sides, including Barbadian macaroni pie, and washed down with a few bottles of Banks.

Harbour Lights in Bridgetown is another multi-sensory event. Twice weekly, they host a Dinner Show (lots of choices, but we went again for the fish), packed with entertainment.

As we tucked into another huge helping of food, we watched fire eaters, steel pan musicians and stilt walkers. The all-inclusive nature of this evening extended to the bar, with beer, spirits and cocktails served at breakneck speed.

Lunch at Tapas Restaurant is another treat. There, we tried the Spice Rubbed Catch of the Day.

On Sunday evening, after Run Barbados was done, we visited a couple of hotels on the west coast, including The Rockley, which is just across the road from Champers Restaurant.

This was the poshest meal of all and after feasting on their Coconut Shrimp (with chilli sauce), Oven Roasted Barracuda, and Coconut Cream Pie for desert, recovery from that morning’s half-marathon was complete.

But our trip wasn’t over yet. On Monday we headed back towards Bridgetown for a Tiami Catamaran Cruise — a four-hour sail up the west coast that included snorkelling, looking out for turtles, and lots of dancing.

Oh yeah, and another all-inclusive bar!

Between the cruise and our stop-over at The Goalkeeper Sports Bar, this was the absolute making of our stay in Barbados.

Journalist Mark McCadden outside The Goalkeeper Sports Bar
Journalist Mark McCadden outside The Goalkeeper Sports Bar

A calmer start to Tuesday was required, as we were heading home that evening, so we headed to Apes Hill Golf Club, a stunning resort that offers temporary and permanent accommodation, and views to die for.

From some of the higher tee boxes, you can see both the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic.

They are big on sustainability too, which is important when you are trying to maintain 475 wonderfully landscaped acres.

Before we left, there was a quick, unscheduled stop at Foursquare distillery, for a look at how the Caribbean’s favourite drink is made.

If you are lucky enough to visit Barbados, do take the time to see the sights, to lie on its golden beaches and to swim in its crystal clear seas.

But also, as we took the opportunity to when we visited The Goalkeeper Sports Bar, take some time to study the island’s greatest treasure, its people.

Barbados at a glance

ACCOMMODATION

Wyndham Grand Barbados, Sam Lord’s Castle Resort and Spa — Perched on a cliff and next to a majestic 19th century castle, guests can immerse themselves in the resort experience with an all-inclusive plan.

The Crane — A luxury oceanfront resort featuring ultra-spacious residences, with four restaurants and lighted swimming pools.

The Rockley — A vibrant and modern hotel, decorated with Bajan artwork and with luxurious rooms.

Apes Hill Barbados Golf Resort — Play golf or padel, improve your game with the state-of-the-art training facilities and stay in absolute comfort and luxury. Meanwhile, Holetown, with its picturesque beaches, galleries and dining is just a few minutes’ drive away.

ACTIVITIES

Harrison’s Cave Eco Adventure Park — One of Barbados’s greatest wonders, located in the island’s central uplands, this crystalised limestone cave offers flowing streams, deep pools of crystal clear water and towering columns. A gem of an experience with plenty more to offer overground in the Adventure Park.

Run Barbados — The reason for our trip, a three-day running festival with the pinnacle being the largest marathon in the Caribbean.

Barclays Park — The start and finish point for the 5k/10k, and half/full marathons, this park overlooks the Atlantic and is home to the famous surfing site Bathsheba.

Tiami Catamaran Cruise — An unforgettable experience, where you are fed and watered (or rum-med) during a cruise up and down the island’s west coast. Bring your swimming gear for the snorkelling and look out for turtles.

The Garrison Savannah — Home to the Barbados Turf Club and established in 1905, the Garrison Savannah hosts horse racing events all year round. It is also the setting for the Fun Mile — the first of the Run Barbados events.

FOOD

Harbour Lights Beach Extravaganza and Dinner Show — As mentioned in the main piece, this is an opportunity to eat, drink and be entertained late into the night.

Oistins Fish Fry — A unique experience, located on the south coast, this has to be experienced to be believed (see main piece).

Champers Restaurant — Great food and service, and delicious cocktails, right on the water’s edge.

Tapas Restaurant — Stunning food and great service, and what a setting, with the breeze coming in off the coast and offering relief from the high temperatures.

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