A time for feeding and pruning
Christmas time again and even if you think you are ready indoors, there are still jobs to do in the garden before the ‘Festive Season’ gets under way. I know you would prefer to be inside, but those fruit and nut trees are waiting to be fed, a
Christmas time again and even if you think you are ready indoors, there are still jobs to do in the garden before the ‘Festive Season’ gets under way.
I know you would prefer to be inside, but those fruit and nut trees are waiting to be fed, as they haven’t been fed since May! Some trees are fed after leaf drop, like prunus for example – (plums, nectarines, cherries and peaches) and if you don’t manage to do it this month, you could still do it once the festivities are over.
Using 20.10.10 fertiliser or as near to that as you can get, feed fruit trees with three mugsful for mature trees and one mugful for young trees. A reminder that the fertiliser should be spread between the trunk and the edge of the tree canopy where the feeding roots are and not just around the trunk of the trees.
Check that your citrus trees are not short of iron or zinc, that shows up as yellowing or mottled leaves, which may mean that they need iron or zinc chelate.
Figs need a little pruning after leaf drop and should be fed with the same fertiliser as your other trees. Pecans tend to keep their leaves a little longer. If you grow pomegranates, they do not need feeding after the first couple of years.
You may be given a fruit tree as a Christmas present, so before you plant it choose the site carefully. Remeber that they will grow outwards as well as upwards, so plant them at least 3 metres away from hedges or they will be competing with them and leave about the same space between other trees, so that they can easily be maintained. As they grow, which they will do, keep your eye on any top growth as tall trees can be a problem when it comes to cropping. It’s far better to be able to pick the fruits without having to climb a ladder.
Shrubs that may need pruning are rosemarys, lavenders and plumbagos which all benefit from a severe trim at this time of year and any dead flower stems should be removed. Hedges have put on growth too and some attention is necessary to keep them in trim. It’s always good to check over topiaries as well, as they can quickly lose their special shapes if left too long.
This is a good time to have a really good look at how your garden fared during yet another really hot summer with little rain to help things along. You might want to consider removing those plants that didn’t do well and putting them into a more sheltered position. Perhaps they too would benefit from extra feeding.
Mespilias are coming into flower now and they perfume the air with their lovely scents. Hopefully any bees and late butterflies will find them too and fertilise the flowers in order for you to have luscious fruits in the springtime. I hardly saw butterflies during the summer months but recently I have seen several different species. It was probably too hot for them as well!
You may find that Jasminum mesnyi bushes are starting to flower and the bright yellow, usually single flowers, with sadly no perfume, will brighten up your garden.
Strelitzias once known as crane flowers and another good plant from South Africa, may already be in flower in coastal gardens, but at higher elevations will take a little longer. It’s a good idea to cut any shredded or damaged leaves right to the bottom of the stem and clean up any debris around the base area. You may need powerful secateurs for that job! I have found that they do not need any feeding, just some watering.
Check roses in case they have grown very tall and may be buffeted about in winter winds, which will loosen the roots. At this time of year, it’s best to reduce the stems down by half, which should help. Other major pruning takes place later on.
I know that in village gardens they seem to flower all winter long, but roses like other plants do need a rest period and this is a good time for that. I may have mentioned before that some professional rose growers remove all the leaves at this point to really rest the plants.
You may find ‘bare root’ roses on garden centre benches now and this is good time to plant them as well. Remember to give them a good soak in a bucket of water before you plant them and cut back any straggly roots to give them the best chance of survival. Some slow-release fertiliser at the bottom of the planting hole certainly helps things along.
You may be thinking that I have forgotten about the favourite Christmas flower around the world and certainly here in Cyprus – poinsettias. There will be few homes that don’t have one or two indoors. I always advise not to buy from an outdoor store as they can be ‘iffy’ plants and do not like changes of temperature at all. So, choose a nice bright draught-free spot indoors in the light but out of the sun. There may of course be some leaf drop, so remember that they leak latex from the leaf ends to which you to may be allergic.
Watering can be a problem and many a poinsettia dies from over-watering. This is what I suggest. Feel the top of the soil and if it is at all dry, then some watering is necessary. The best way I have found is to hold the pot over a bowl or sink and let cool water drip gently through the pot. When it has stopped dripping from the bottom, then return the plant to its decorative pot.
Potted plants are often given as Christmas gifts so what are the alternatives to poinsettias? Orchids are very much in favour these days but can be a bit tricky to keep going. Potted azaleas are also around at this time of year and have bright cheerful colours. You might like to give a really exotic plant like a Mendinilla magnifica, otherwise known as the grape rose, which really steals the show, or how about a wonderful vibrant amaryllis? The choice is yours.
Plant of the Month – Coleus
Coleus is the common name of this attractive plant (its botanical name is Solenostemon) and there are many different varieties available here. They are low-maintenance plants with attractive foliage.
There are hundreds of coleus plant varieties available in different colours, leaf textures, and patterns as new cultivars are developed each year.
They tend to be grown as annuals and are very easy to propagate from stem cuttings, even in a glass of water, where they will root quite easily. Lots of gardeners remove the flowers, which are quite insignificant, which will encourage the plant to produce more pretty leaves.
Coleus are usually regarded as house or conservatory plants but will grow equally well in the garden, unless you have cold night temperatures of course.
Height and spread depend on the variety. Cultivars grow from 6 to 36 inches tall and wide. Taller plants with large leaves tend to stay more upright whilst smaller, dwarf varieties feature a wider growth pattern.
Coleus grow rapidly, so start with a pot large enough to accommodate the mature plant. For tall, upright varieties choose a heavy 12-inch pot with stones in the bottom to help anchor the heavy top growth, as good drainage prevents root and stem rot.
Coleus plants are not usually bothered by diseases, although they can be susceptible to mealybugs, aphids, spider mites and whiteflies! A few insects on a plant can often be controlled with a strong spray from a garden hose, but if the infestation is severe you might have to resort to an insecticide whilst some mulching on the top of the soil discourages slugs and snails.
In cool, damp weather, fungal diseases such as powdery mildew may appear. Rootbound coleus also develops yellow leaves. Fungal infections usually start during periods of cool, humid weather. Downy mildew is a fungal infection that flourishes in those conditions, causing stunted growth and loss of foliage. Fuzzy grey and purple spores may appear on the undersides of leaves.
Over-watered plants can develop mushy leaves, whilst not enough water can cause foliage to and turn brown and crispy. Water new transplants in well and keep soil moist. Use a water-soluble product such as Phostrogen for container plants. Avoid overcrowding plants for better air circulation and water in the morning.
When choosing coleus, big is not always better. Dwarf varieties and large varieties with healthy, vibrant leaves that haven’t reached full maturity have a better chance of surviving transplant shock.
A major disadvantage is that coleus is toxic to pets. If you have a curious puppy or kitten that likes to nibble on plants, it might not be a good choice!
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